Danish/Wicker/Rattan Webbing Again

Time for a refresher on applying new webbing for your open frame seating such as most Danish open arm chairs, sofas and loveseats, wicker and rattan frames.  I've been selling webbing repair "kits" since 2006 when my daughter found a chair in the trash at university far from home and needed materials to fix and reuse. So I sent her the repair materials and printed out some pictures in the form of an instructional sheet and she repaired that thing herself!  Years later, the webbing has held out, but foam in cushions is what has needed replacing.

If you are local to the Twin Cities you may come to shop on East Lake Street to pick up. If you are local without that kind of time, or live elsewhere, you can order from me easily here on the website's Shop page.

You may also call the shop at 612-729-1841 and place an order... *or* and this is preferable, since I don't always answer the phone when working,  email the measurement and number of vertical straps, slot-to-slot and the number of horizontal straps and their measurement slot-to-slot. Then I'll let you know exactly what you need to Do It Yourself!

Some frames will have both horizontal and vertical:

Oh my gosh! These are REALLY in need of repair! This was an outdoor seating arrangement at a local restaurant's patio - they'd pulled the cushions in for the night and I walked by and saw this.  There is no amount of good foam cushions that are going to make this comfortable seating. They need new webbing that's all there is to it!

Some will only have one direction:

I sell the materials of black elastic webbing + v-clips meant to be flattened on each end of cut webbing as simply as  you can do it - hammer, pliers, vise grip - what-have-you.  There is no mystery to this, no special secrets of the trade.

These are called Expersprings and you need to order their replacement elsewhere:

These are called Fagas and you need to order them elsewhere:

I send the webbing in one continuous piece, uncut - ready for  you to make that determination, but I will tell you each strap is really cut no more that 1/2" shorter than the actual measurement slot-to-slot.

The looser, or closer to actual measurement, once  your clips are applied it's certainly easier to stretch into place, but you will have a softer seat, because there will be more elastic to expand - this is probably not so desirable, most people will want their new webs to provide a firm seat...along with new foam in the cushions.   Expect your elastic webbing to last at least 7-10 years before they need replacing again.  Even then you may need new foam in the cushions before you need to replace webbing, but that's up to you.

On with 16 images of the process.  I will spare you any more chitchat since this really is so simple for you to do yourself.  Occasionally though, a client will not want to bother at all with it and will bring their frames for me to do.  And that's just fine, but do call or email rather than showing up because I frequently have no room in my small busy shop for drop-in's.

all you need right here - length of new webbing + new v-clips

clean out the old ones.  you may see that previously the webbing was nailed, stapled or attached with dowels.  you can still use this elastic webbing, you just won't need the clips

see how tightly the old ones were flattened?

a clean frame is a happy frame - now is the time to polish or refinish

first new webbing strap - I like to work back-to-front

flatten 'er down evenly across

make sure the "teeth" grip the webbing but if you place the clip face down and against ledge of solid surface, you can give it a couple of whacks with hammer to really secure those teeth into webbing

stretch it forward and mark w chalk your cut line.  no more than 1/2" shorter than measurement or it's hell to stretch in place

now clip the other end...

it can get physical trying to stretch new webbing with two new clips in place - especially if you cut them even a bit too short

that's it - that's all of them on this chair, only 4 straps

new foam cut for frame.  I like to go an inch or two longer and higher than frame (depends on foam's resiliency) to compress into the newly sewn upholstery

Matched pattern from boxing of cushion to top and bottom plates - keeps things nice

ta-da.  how cute is that?